Fortifying the cocktail: in defence of a wonderful mix

Bartender Shae Silvestro's eyes twinkle, a smile plays across his lips. Would he like a $500 bottle of a rare Australian fortified wine for one of his cocktails? You bet he would. As black skies threaten outside, inside in the dark cave-like interior of Brooks Wine Bar off Collins Street, he sets to work.

His star ingredient on this leaden Melbourne day is a perfect spring partner, the Paramount Collection DP 898 aged flor apera, an amontillado-style apera (that's Australian for sherry).

A solera or blend of different vintages is at the heart of this incredibly complex, super smooth, nutty, amber-hued fortified.

Some of the vintage parcels, dating back to the 1990s, have been quietly at rest in the cellars at Seppeltsfield in the Barossa Valley for decades. The DP 898 is being dispatched in one of Seppeltsfield's own cocktail recipes, a mojito. The original recipe calls for the always dependable DP 117 dry apera, but since more and more fortified makers like Seppeltsfield want bartenders like Shae to get on board, why not head for the very top shelf? Isn't it better to use these fortified gifts, including the most rare, than for them to gather dust and cease production? Name changes for tokay (now topaque or muscadelle), sherry (now apera) and port (now fortified shiraz) haven't helped the fortified cause.

Bringing them into popular use in the form of mixed drinks, cocktails and even slushies might just extend their use-by date past their traditional winter timeslot. It really is OK to have a fortified all year round. Sometimes, all you need is a recipe. Sydney barman Eric Brooks, at Bloodwood, loves utilising fortifieds in mixed drinks.

"They reduce the overall alcohol kick," he says, "making it a lighter aperitif which is good for those who wish to dip their toe rather than jump into a boozy evening."

His fortified of choice is vermouth. At Popolo, in Rushcutters Bay, Fabio Dore uses fortifieds from Sicily and Sardinia, offering a change in flavour scenery as well as in keeping with the restaurant's southern Italian food theme.

For Gustavo Kroneis, at Ananas in The Rocks, it's about the complexity and interest a fortified like Pedro Ximenez can bring to some of his signature cocktails.

Cru Bar + Cellar in Brisbane's Fortitude Valley goes with what sommelier Graham Sutherland is inspired by. At the moment it, too, is Pedro Ximenez.

"Complimentary flavours such as the PX and a rich dark rum work beautifully," he says.

Meanwhile, back in the Brooks cave, Shae Silvestro looks pained. He's not entirely happy with the recipe sent from Seppeltsfield. He wants to fiddle with it, take out the brown sugar and use sugar syrup (a mix of one part water to one part sugar heated until dissolved, cooled and then chilled). Done. He's more than happy with the result.

"Using the expensive apera has brought a real finesse to the flavour," he says in between sips. And the price? "I'd have to sell it for $35 to $40 a glass."

I leave the bottle with him. Who knows, someone just might just feel inclined to head for that top shelf.

Fortifying the cocktail

Seppeltsfield Flor Mojito

Ingredients 30ml Seppeltsfield Solero DP117 Dry Flor Apera 30ml white rum 30ml fresh lime juice 22ml sugar syrup 10 mint leaves Soda water to top

Method Add all ingredients (except soda) to the glass and lightly muddle mint. Fill glass with crushed ice and top with soda. Serve in a highball glass with mint sprig garnish.

Adapted by Shae Silvestro of Brooks Wine Bar, Melbourne, from Seppeltsfield recipe.

Zacapa Flip

Ingredients 60ml Ron Zacapa 23 rum 15ml Valdespino yellow label Pedro Ximenez 15ml Spiced Vanilla Gomme syrup 3 dashes Fee Brothers Aztec chocolate bitters whole egg

Method Shake in a Boston shaker with ice. Double strain and garnish with a sprinkle of nutmeg.

Port Side

Ingredients 45ml cognac 22ml port (or fortified shiraz) 22ml fresh lemon juice 5ml maple syrup 1 pear cheek.

Method Add all ingredients to a shaker and muddle pear. Shake with ice and fine strain into a cocktail glass. No garnish required

From Shae Silvestro, Brooks Wine Bar, Melbourne.

Marsala Martini

Ingredients
30ml Pellegrino marsala verginie soleras
30ml Johnny Walker Black
30ml Kahlua coffee liqueur and ice

Method Shake, garnish with cinnamon stick and raspberry fruit

From Fabio Dore, Popolo, Sydney.

Honey Highland Sazerac

Ingredients
45ml Glenmorangie Nectar D'Or
15ml Romate Pedro Ximenez
3 dashes Peychaud's bitters
5ml Absinthe rinse

Method Shake and garnish with orange twist. Serve neat.

From Gustavo Kroneis, Ananas, Sydney.

Red Valley XO

Ingredients
30ml All Saints Estate Muscat
30ml cognac
15ml creme de cacao
1-2 drops of ouzo
orange twist, to serve

Method Serve neat over ice. Optional extra: brown sugar or fresh birdseye chilli to taste.

From Ben Knight, Bottega, Melbourne

Houdini

Ingredients
40ml Dolin blanc white vermouth
20ml La Goya manzanilla sherry
15ml Maidenii aperitif vermouth
dash Peychauds bitters

Method Stir all ingredients over ice and fine strain into a chilled coupette.

From Eric Morris, Bloodwood, Sydney.