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Neon Tiger

Dani Valent
Dani Valent

Neon Tiger's ceiling is decorated with corrugated iron clouds.
Neon Tiger's ceiling is decorated with corrugated iron clouds.Simon Schluter

Modern Australian$$

Friends don't tell friends to open cafes. If they held back, there would be fewer places run by misguided souls who do great dinner parties ("This pasta is amazing, you should open a restaurant!"), but don't have any idea how to provide hospitality. Businesses fuelled by unfocused food dreams might be full of heart, even delicious dishes, but being in them can feel like riding a runaway train.

On the other hand, there are places that know what they're up to right from the first morning of the first day. The operators understand the neighbourhood (and they're still willing to listen and learn), the menu is carefully judged and the waiters spill with initiative.

Neon Tiger is in the second, happy category. The collective CV includes Mr Brightside in Caulfield and Melbourne Pub Group, and you may recognise the people serving and cooking for you from other quality cafes.

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Pappardelle with roasted cauliflower peas and gorgonzola.
Pappardelle with roasted cauliflower peas and gorgonzola.Simon Schluter

Everything feels good. The pastel fitout adds a friendly spin to a new concrete and glass box. Cute corrugated ceiling baffles hold back the din. The dog-loving pavement area has heaters and umbrellas that ensure it's feasible even in winter.

The menu makes it easy to be healthy and fresh or gooey and indulgent and, above all, the waiters have enough experience and wit to keep trying to say yes to their customers.

Smart breakfast dishes include french toast (cut into fingers for more crisp golden fringe), and bubble and squeak waffles, because spuds are fine way to start a day.

French toast fingers.
French toast fingers.Simon Schluter
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For lunch, eat the salads, because they're Superfood Central or just because they're tasty.

There's also silky pappardelle​ tossed with roasted cauliflower, peas and gorgonzola: it's superb.

The coffee is good and the juice menu is excellent, rounding off a new cafe that's as clever as it is comfortable.

Rating: Four stars (out of five)

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Dani ValentDani Valent is a food writer and restaurant reviewer.

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