Canberra's best restaurants: A. Baker

Top 20 restaurants, Food and Wine Annual 2014: number 19.

Deep in the heart of groove central in NewActon, it would be strange if this cafe-cum-restaurant wasn't seriously hip and happening.

Some early service issues now seem to be resolved and enthusiastic, youthful courtesy is now the order of the day. An utterly open kitchen is a clear sign of confidence, and one that is justified.

You could do worse that start with a selection of cold meats, perhaps the wonderful wagu bresola (salted beef) and peppery pork salami stained black with squid ink. A generous serve of A. Baker bread comes with the cold cuts and is an asset with many of the dishes. Divided into small and large options, you could share the lot here, or take the starter-main route.

A dish of buffalo mozzarella is subtle and sophisticated, about texture as much as taste, and nicely set off with black garlic, wafers of turnip and smoked walnuts.

A large plate of Snowy River trout is a standout, the pink, juicy flesh well paired with kipfler potatoes and smoked yellow beetroot.

A glass or two of the Nick O'Leary riesling or shiraz is one local of many on the decent drinks list.

Tuck into a plate of properly stored (ripe, room temperature) cheese to end, or throw caution to the wind and embrace the peanut butter semi freddo and you will walk out feeling complete, and perhaps just a little cool.

A. Baker
15 Edinburgh Avenue, NewActon. 6287 6150. abaker.com.au
Owner Jarrod Deaton; chef Bernd Brademann
Monday to Friday 7am-late; Saturday 8am-late; Sunday 8am-4pm